Fits:
Toyota Land Cruiser 100 Series & Lexus LX 470
Bolt on track bar correction kits now available for lc100/lx470. Proven design. Strongest bolt on track bar correction kits in the market. All brackets have the potential to contact frame under suspension cycle this can be addressed with longer bump stops or bump stop drop
What It Does
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Fixes that sketchy, side-to-side axle swing after a lift.
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Brings your track bar (panhard bar) back to a more natural, level position.
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Keeps your rig tracking straight, planted, and predictable on-road and off.
Bolt-on design — no welding, no guesswork. - Standard height brackets can potentially contact frame under suspension cycle! Shorty bracket is not available for all models. All brackets on the market have the same potential!
Why It Matters
- When you lift your rig, the track bar angle gets steep. That forces the axle to swing left/right instead of moving up/down — making the rear feel unstable.
- The B.O.T.C.K. raises the pivot point to flatten that bar and bring your handling back to normal. Simple fix, huge difference.
Shorty vs. Regular – Pick the Right One
How to Pick the Correct B.O.T.C.K. Version
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Park on level ground.
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Measure from the ground to the center of the frame-side track-bar bolt.
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Measure from the ground to the center of the axle-side track-bar bolt.
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Subtract the two measurements to find your bolt-height difference:
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1.5"–2.99" → Shorty Version (or use the bottom hole on the Standard bracket)
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3" or higher → Standard Version (use the top hole)
Planning to lift higher later? Go with the Standard Version — it gives you extra mounting options as your suspension height changes.
Updates You Need to Know
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No more flange nuts – now standard hex nuts.
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Washer for side bolt no longer needed.
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Torque spec: 105ft-lbs on the 80mm bolt at the oem bolt location, 125ft-lbs on all other M14 bolts, 30-35ft-lbs on the M8 bolts, with lots of blue Loctite (or a little red).
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KDSS or non-KDSS? Doesn’t matter. Works with both.
Real Talk
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Stop buying parts you don’t need — understand what it does before hitting checkout.
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This kit isn’t just stronger than weld-on options — it spreads load evenly across the OEM mount instead of depending on the welds.
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Designed for rigs that actually see dirt, not just mall crawlers.
Updated Install Notes
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Use plenty of blue Loctite or a dab of red on all hardware that has yellow zinc
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Bolt-on installation, no drilling or welding required.
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Supplied DR KDSS M14 hardware uses an 18mm socket.
Works with both KDSS and non-KDSS setups.
What’s Included
- Front bracket
- Back bracket
- (1x) M14 x 1.5 x 80 flange head bolt
- (1x) M14 x 1.5 x 75 flange head bolt
- (1x) M14 x 1.5 hex nut
- (4x) M8 x 1.25 x 30mm
- All hardware is zinc coated
Fulfillment Time: Please allow 36–48 hours.
UPDATED: (Torque bolts to 105 ft-lb @ oem bolt location , side bolt and main track bar bolt 125ft lbs, m8 bolts 30-35ft lbs )
Install Notes:
Will be so much easier if you put the bracket side axle on a hydraulic jack and remove the wheel so you have access and visual of the oem bracket from all sides.
Loosen passenger-side OEM track bar bolt. Use a 19mm socket and/or open-end wrench.
Unbolt the axle side of the track bar and bungee the track bar out of the way. Start to remove the bolts for the brake line, massage the brake line away from the OEM mount, remove the ABS connector, and release the tension off the e-brake cable. Also unbolt the sway bar bolts. I have come across different bolts across the test vehicles used, usually requiring a 10-13mm socket. Note: the sway bar will be hanging. Unbolt the passenger side of the sway bar so the sway bar can fully swing out of the way. Drop in the back bracket. The OEM mount may or may not need to be bent open. A plumber’s wrench or large crescent wrench can make your life easier. Use the OEM bolt or the provided 80mm bolt with an 18mm socket to help align the back bracket.
Once you ensure the back bracket and bolt are aligned by installing the bolt 3-5 turns in. Remove bolt and now finesse the main rear bracket ( the one you see facing the back of vehicle) around the tabs that come off the oem mount.
Once you slip the main bracket around the OEM tabs and get the bracket up against the OEM mount, install the provided 80mm bolt into the OEM location 3-4 turns, leaving it loose. Use an 18mm socket for the provided 80mm bolt. If you bent the bracket too much, sometimes you will fight putting the side bolt on. What you can do is loosely drop the track bar in with the provided 75mm bolt and nut. Use an 18mm socket for the provided 75mm bolt. Now tighten down the 80mm bolt at the OEM location and suck the main bracket toward the front of the truck to help the front and back brackets align. This will allow you to install the side bolt. For now, just thread it in 3-5 turns. Swing the sway bar up and install the two M8 bolts to hold up the sway bar and bracket. Drop the track bar into the B.O.T.C.K, if you didn’t already, while it’s all loose and use the provided 75mm bolt with nut for the track bar. Go over to the passenger side and install the M8 bolts for the passenger-side sway bar, as it needs to be shimmed down to match the bracket side. Install the shim plate with the M8 bolts. Rotate the hard brake line bolt tab so it’s facing up. See picture. Install the brake line as shown in the pictures.
Main oem bolt hole using 80mm bolt is torqued to 105lbs , track bar bolt and side bolt torque to 125lbs, m8 bolts on bottom side on passenger side swaybar torque to 30-35lbs. Use blue loctite on all hardware or very little red.
